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Buckstones - Below the Road

Click here for the "Above the Road" problems guide

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Buckstones Edge, also know as Nont Sarah's, has a collection of around 140 local boulder problems in a superb moorland location with fantastic views. Most problems are on natural gritstone of good quality.

The problems can be split into two distinct sections.

The "Above the Road" problems, which are uphill of the A640, starting from where a large boulder almost touches the road, around 300m right of the Buckstones Hotel. Click here for the "Above the Road" problems guide. They are described on that page and consist of sectors A to D.

The "Below the Road" problems are in the area directly downhill of the main car park which is popular in summer with a variety of different people. This area has the higher concentration of harder boulder problems but also has a good range of easier problems with nice flat grassy landings. They are described on this page and consist of sectors E to G.

ACCESS

Easy to find as the parking area is directly off the A640 New Hey Road where it meets the B6114 Saddleworth Road

An easy to print PDF TOPO guide to all the problems can be downloaded from here

BETA ALERT!

Click on the camera icon to view images of the problems being climbed or click on the video icon to view videos of the problems being climbed.



The Problems

Hovering your mouse over, or clicking on, the name/grade of the problem will show the problem highlighted on the topo photograph below.

The Problems are described from left to right and are split into 3 main sectors as shown by the markers on the above map.


Sector E
1) Font 3 The left face
2) Font 3 The nose
3) Font 3 The side wall
4) Font 3 The right wall


5) BIG BUCKS TRAVERSE - Font 5 A clockwise traverse of the top of the square boulder


6) Font 3 The arête
7) Font 3 The short wall
8) Font 3 The wall
9) Font 3 The crack and crimps
10) Font 3 The crack next to the small pocket


11) Font 3 The face
12) Font 3 The arete with carved letters at the top
13) Font 3 The middle of the wall
14) Font 3 The centre of the face
15) Font 3 The scoop
16) Font 3 The short wall
17) Font 3 Climb the overhanging nose and upper scoop


18) Font 3 The centre of the face
19) Font 3 The arete
20) Font 3 The side wall
21) Font 3 The wall over JW graffiti
22) Font 3 The wall to the right of JW graffiti
23) Font 3 The easy face


24) Font 3 The Arete
25) Font 3 Climb the flake
26) Font 3 The flake on the side wall
27) Font 3 Another flake
28) Font 3 The face with BA graffiti


Sector F
29) LEAGUE OF GENTLEMEN - Font 3 The left side wall
30) Font 3 The wall to the left of the big rof
31) A POUND OF SPECIAL - Font 5 The right side of the roof from a jamming start on the flake, traversing round the top of the roof to finish up A Local Shop (finish shown on next photo)
32) THE ROYSTON VASEY TRAVERSE - Font 6b A left to right traverse under the roof (finish shown on next photo)
33) PRECIOUS THINGS DYNO - Font 6c Jump start to the break and then dyno to the top
34) PIG TRAVERSE L-R - Font 6b+ Traverse the break at the back of the roof starting round to the left, climb past the start of PIAP and Finish past the crimp on the right wall. (finish shown on next photo)
35) OKEY DOKEY - Font 7b Start on the big ledge and climb the left edge of the roof to a scary move to the jug on the lip, it's then a campus move to finish.
36) OKEY POKEY - Font 7b+ A triple link up! Start up Okey Dokey to the jug at the roof. Then reverse Pig In A Pokey to finish along Pig Traverse R-L to top out just to the left of where you started out!


31) A POUND OF SPECIAL - Font 5 The right side of the roof from a jamming start on the flake, traversing round the top of the roof to finish up A Local Shop (start shown on previous photo)
32) THE ROYSTON VASEY TRAVERSE - Font 6b A left to right traverse under the roof (start shown on previous photo)
34) PIG TRAVERSE L-R - Font 6b+ Traverse the break at the back of the roof starting round to the left, climb past the start of PIAP and Finish past the crimp on the right wall (start shown on previous photo)
37) PIG IN A POKEY - Font 7a+ Sit start the right side of the roof, move along the crimps to make the jugs, campus to finish
38) PIG IN A DOKEY - Font 7c Another hard link up. From a sitting start climb Pig in a Pokey to the jug at the end, then reverse Okey Dokey and traverse right at the back of the roof to finish up the right wall.
39) PIG TRAVERSE R-L - Font 6a+ From a sitting start traverse left round the break under the roof and finish up the wall left of the roof.
40) Font 4 The side wall by way of the flake
41) Font 6b Sit start from the 2 small holds under the roof moving right and then up the side wall via the flake
42) A LOCAL SHOP - Font 6a From the break on the lip of the roof dyno for the top or the break


43) Font 3 The knobbly wall
44) Font 3 The short face
45) Font 3 The wall
46) Font 3 The featured face


47) Font 3 The arete and scoop
48) Font 3 The wall to the right of the scoop


49) Font 3 The easy slab
50) Font 3 Mantle onto the slab
51) NOSEBLEED - Font 5 Rock up from flakes then traverse from left to right on the top edge
52) Font 4 The arete


53) LEGZ AKIMBO / THE WHACK - Font 7c The middle of the slab above the cave, start at the undercut wall, no blocks for feet, one hard move to make the break
54) KEEPING TOADS - Font 4 The slabby face


55) TUBBS AND EDWARD - Font 5 The arete and rounded top
56) MICKEY LUV - Font 6b The centre of wall to a tricky finish
57) PAPA LAZAROU - Font 7a Up the wall on slopers with a hard finish


58) Font 3 Easy slab
59) ON THE JOB WITH PAULINE - Font 6a The right side of the arete, laybacking to the flake
60) Project? The middle of the face from the 2 small holds, no jumping
61) HOKEY COKEY - Font 3 The right arete


62) TAILS AND NO-TAILS - Font 3 The slab on the lone boulder


Sector G
63) Font 3 The front of the block
64) Font 5 From the scoop climb the right corner of the prow
65) Font 3 The side of the block


66) Font 3 The arete through the scoop
67) Font 3 The satisfying wall
68) Font 5 The right side of the wall via the pocket
69) Font 3 Direct up the arete


70) Font 6c Using the lower break for your left foot and the two holds in the scoop gain the break and then the tricky rounded top out
71) Font 6a Up the scoop then onto the arete
72) Font 3 The arete
73) Font 3 The easy wall


74) Font 3 The downhill face
75) Font 4 The face left of the scoop, the boulder is out
76) Font 3 The face, this time you can use the boulder

Thanks to Alex for his photographs and mark ups and also to anyone who helped produce this guide.

Photographs and videos of any problems are more than welcome and can be included on the site.

Details of new problems and opinions on grades will be gratefully received, see the Contact button at the top right of this page or click here

Location

53° 37' 6.438" N, 1° 58' 26.3568" W
 

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