Holmfirth Cliff

Holmfirth Edge comprises a series of short quarried gritstone aretes and bays.
The left-hand and central sections have several lock-up garages nestling at their base. There are problems here plus some very impressive high-balls, mainly V0-E3, these are not described here yet. There are also a few smaller buttresses beyond the left hand end of Cliff with some worthwhile problems, an update to the guide is in the pipeline which will include the best of these.

The right-hand end of Cliff is lower in height, more varied and has a pleasant footpath below and above. The flat grassy/heathery base plus the view makes for a rather nice picnic spot.
The crag has a splendid and very open outlook over the small town below and towards the main Pennines.

The crag offers a little grafitti though it can’t match nearby West Vale for cultural references. A recent BMC initiative led to the removal of the most unpleasant examples. The quarry’s north-west outlook means that it is not at its best in wet spells when the left walls of the many aretes become very green. Dry sunny evenings in the mid-seasons are probably best.

The rock is solid gritstone with sandy patches in the lower half but has a flaggy top which can be loose. For the latter reason Cliff has gained literary notoriety, consequently, the quarry is best used for bouldering, using suitable escapes along midway breaks and platforms, although full-height routes are equally possible. Most of the bouldering described here is fairly low, however one feature of the quarry is a small jutting rock shelf at the base of some of the bouldering sections which can threaten ankles… be aware! Remember: climbing is a dangerous activity and you do it (even bouldering) at your own risk. Take care with that ground-level shelf (ankles), the high level flaggy finishes (potentially lethal) and keep an eye out for local youths who may jettison ’empties’ from the footpath above the crag.

All in all, not a major venue but one which is very handy for the locals and worth an evening’s intensive session from keen boulderers elsewhere in the region. The crag has been climbed on for at least 45 years (if not more) and is, as they say, steeped in history. As with Fontainbleau, more than one local has trained on Everest in preparation for their home venue.

Access

There have been parking issues in the past with local residents so it’s advisable to park up where there is load of space on Cliff Road where it meets Cliff Lane, the little walk in will warm you up!