kirklees climbing
SOUTH OF FRANCE
This page provides information on crags in Provence
(from the mouth of the Rhone to Nice) and also on Languedoc, westwards from the mouth of the
Rhone.
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- Buoux, Provence.
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Fabled but often over-populated crag. Many routes of all grades in
wooded open valley. Fairly short and easy walk-in through trees. Many areas (but
not all) have reasonably safe, tree-sheltered bases, though these may feel
constrained by the wooded slopes. Mid season or sunny winters. Guidebooks:
Several including Buoux, P Duret et al. 1995; Selection in French Rock Climbs, M
Atkinson 1990; Selection in Topos a la Carte/Band 1 Klettern in Sudfrankreich, M
Lochner 1992; Small selection in French Rock, Bill Birkett 1993
- Opedde le Vieux, Provence.
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Mini-Buoux minor crag hidden in woodland near
sadist's castle; grades 5-7. Short walk and some flattish areas above wooded slopes but overall the
feeling is rather gloomy. A child could whittle a stick, I suppose. Mid-season.
Guidebook: Topo Oppede, P Duret
- Cavaillon, Provence.
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Many small minor crags encircle the
hilltop church above the small town of Cavaillon. The better crags are higher up
the hillsides with more awkward access, scree-bases in some cases, and often
fragile rock. On the other side of the hill, the child-friendly crags (steep
grey slabs; grades 4-7, mainly easier grades) rise abruptly from the running
track at the edge of the sports fields; the penalty is polish. Mid-season.
Guidebook: Cavaillon, S Jaulin et al. 1992
- Orgon, Alpilles, Provence.
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Various good slabby crags facing various directions across a bowl-shaped valley covered
in open pine scrubland. Well endowed with holds (though some popularity polish);
consequently busy. Mainly grades 3 to 6 with a few 7s. Short easy walk-in.
Right-hand end is child-safe and with some tree shelter but further along is
less convenient for the very young (more open and stony sloping land).
Mid-season and sunny winters; sheltered from northerlies. Some north-facing
crags. Summers too hot and fire risk/closure. Guidebook: Orgon, P Duret, regular
editions.
- Orgon Canal, Alpilles, Provence.
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High standard crag; 5s upwards but
famed for the hard routes in the 8s. Quarry-like crag rises from flat plain,
next to malarial canal. Car seat access, flat base; beware loose holds. Sunny
winter mornings and mid-season; shade in the evenings. Guidebook: Orgon, P
Duret, regular editions; Les Alpilles, S Jaulin et al. 1990; Selection in Topos
a la Carte/Band 1 Klettern in Sudfrankreich, M Lochner 1992; Small selection in
French Rock, Bill Birkett 1993
- Aureille, La Civadiere in Les Alpilles, Provence.
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Juggy minor crag on pleasant open hillside; mainly grades 4 - 6 for mid-season
and sunny winters. Short walk and average sloping base. Beware: variable rock,
loose holds. Guidebook: Aureille, S Jaulin 1990
- Mouries (North Face), Alpilles, Provence.
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The epitome of a child-friendly crag. Double-sided fin gives sunny
Winter south face and mid-season north face. Summer fire risk/closure. North
face (very steep slabs) rises abruptly from dead flat prairie/meadow/ad-hoc
cricket pitch/picnic site. Medium length but easy walk in along cart track.
Grades 4 - 8; mainly very technical 6s and 7s (hard for the grade). Guidebook:
Escalades a Mouries, S Jaulin 1987; Les Alpilles, S Jaulin et al. 1990;
Selection in Topos a la Carte/Band 1 Klettern in Sudfrankreich, M Lochner 1992;
Selection in French Rock Climbs, M Atkinson 1990; Small selection in French
Rock, Bill Birkett 1993
- Fontvielle, Alpilles, Provence.
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Tranquil area of Buoux-like rock though nowhere near as significant; varied grades 4 to 7c. Easy
walk in and reasonable base. Mid-season. Guidebook: Les Alpilles, S Jaulin et
al. 1990; Small selection in Topos a la Carte/Band 1 Klettern in Sudfrankreich,
M Lochner 1992; Small selection in French Rock, Bill Birkett 1993
- St Ser at St Victoire.
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Long but impressive hike to mountainside full of grey slabs; single and
multi-pitch Grades 4 -7. Some flat areas at the base though generally there's
that "I'm vunerable below a big low-angled mountain crag" feeling. Interesting
old chapel. Mid-season. Guidebook: Escalade en Pays d'Aix, D Gorgeon 1993;
Selection in Topos a la Carte/Band 1 Klettern in Sudfrankreich, M Lochner 1992.
- En Vau, Calanques.
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Major hike to fabulous (and usually crowded) sea beach set in
stunning gorge. Grades 3 -7, mainly 5s and 6s, but if you've carried a child in,
then enjoy the picnic as you'll be too tired to climb. Worthwhile routes are
long easy multi-pitch; the short routes are probably not worth the fuss. Beware
falling stones as the hordes escape up the sides of the ravine. Mid-season.
Guidebook: Escalade Les Calanques, Gilles Bernard et al. 1997; Selection in
Topos a la Carte/Band 1 Klettern in Sudfrankreich, M Lochner 1992; Small
selection in French Rock, Bill Birkett 1993
- Paroi des Toits, Calanques.
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Long but easy hike to major crag rising above tourist path leading down to a beautiful
sea cove. Grades mainly 6 - 8, mainly 7s; well polished. Base of the crag is
often scrubby and up on low ledges. Winter or mid-season. Guidebook: Escalade
Les Calanques, Gilles Bernard et al. 1997; Selection in Topos a la Carte/Band 1
Klettern in Sudfrankreich, M Lochner 1992; Grimper magazine No 5 Nov/Dec 1994
- Les Cabanons at Morgiou, Calanques.
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Interesting north-facing crag above unique
village in sea inlet. Grades mainly 5s to low 8s mainly 6s and 7s). Short fairly
easy walk to reasonably flat base. Mid-season. Guidebook: Escalade Les
Calanques, Gilles Bernard et al. 1997; Selection in Topos a la Carte/Band 1
Klettern in Sudfrankreich, M Lochner 1992.
- Cimai, Provence.
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What quarries should be like:
open aspect overlooking bushy slopes with superb steep rough rock. Many routes:
Grades 3 - 8, but mainly mid to upper grades. Short and easy access. Reasonable
base. Winter and mid-season. Guidebook: Escalade dans le Var/falaises de Toulon,
M Andrieu et al. 1991; Selection in Topos a la Carte/Band 1 Klettern in
Sudfrankreich, M Lochner 1992; Small selection in French Rock, Bill Birkett 1993
- Chateauvert, Provence.
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Fabulous crag of stunning rock set in pleasant and gentle river
gorge. Good climbs of all grades: 4 -8 Easy access from the minor road running
through the gorge; roadside in places. Many base areas are reasonably child
friendly but the very best area has a large slab at the base from which children
(and climbers with only 59m ropes) will roll. Mid-season crag; shadow in the
mornings. Guidebook: Grimper magazine No 10 July 1995
- Annot Higher, and to the east of the Verdon
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Drive east up the Verdon Gorge, and east again, past the most turquise lake in
the world (pedalos) and you arrive at something which out-gritstones gritstone! Rough slabs
of perfect hard sandstone plus pockets, flakes, superb friction and ... bolts!
Splendid short routes of all grades plus bouldering circuits. Giant boulders in pleasant alpine woodland
face all directions and so even summer is a feasible option. 2004 guidebook.
- Bauchet (Rive Gauche) at the Verdon.
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The true-left-bank Bauchet is the summer alternative at the Verdon
Gorge (and nothing like the other side). North-facing. Steep rough tufa-draped
climbing rises above a forest which grows on a huge shelf halfway down the side
of the gorge. Excellent grades 6 - 8. The base is very child-friendly; huge safe
area of dust and sticks and small caves to explore (with a thick forest between
the crag and the abyss to prevent any wandering off). However getting to the
crag is only suitable for very adventurous families: the descent is a moderate
gully, with rock steps, equipped with fixed ropes. If belayed (and helmeted
because there are loose stones in the gully), an enthusiastic youngster can
swarm down the fixed ropes in about two full rope lengths (though shorter
pitches would be safer). Time consuming, stressful for the parents but great fun
for the competent child. And then there's the lake. Guidebook: Verdon Rive
Gauche/Aiguines, P Buggada 1997
- Les Hauts-Vernis at the Verdon (Rive Gauche).
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Zone of grey slabs (mainly grades 5 -7) reached by a medium length easy horizontal walk from
village, followed by less well-defined paths up through easy woodland. Grand
views over the lake. Reasonably safe base in parts, with tree shelter, but with
some small rock steps. Mid-season, some shade on summer mornings. Guidebook:
Verdon Rive Gauche/Aiguines, P Buggada 1997
- La Source at Saint Jeannet, Nice.
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Zone of small crags below and to the left of the main crag at Saint Jeannet.
Grades: 3 to 8b, wide range but very few 8s. Pleasant woodland/ boulder-field
base is reached after a short easy walk from the village. A reasonably safe
environment though adventurous youngsters will be spotted soloing a 30ft boulder
just as you are belaying the repoint crux. Winter and mid-season mornings.
Guidebook: L'escalade dans les Alpes Maritimes, J-C Raibaud; Selection in Topos
a la Carte/Band 1 Klettern in Sudfrankreich, M Lochner 1992.
- La Loubiere at La Turbie, Monaco.
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Popular crag looking down towards casinos, castles and
millionaires' harbours; take binoculars. Fairly easy walk downhill; reasonable
base. Grades: varied, 3 - 7. Winter and mid-season. Guidebook: L'escalade dans
les Alpes Maritimes, J-C Raibaud Grimper magazine No1 March 1994
- Secteur Big Ben
at Tete de Chien, La Turbie above Monaco.
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Toytown view of Mediterranean tinseltown. Mainly grades 6 -8, mainly 7s. Safe approachs (around to the east)
are quite long, following paths then scrub to the crag. Reasonable base; rocky
scrub. Winter and mid-season. Guidebook: L'escalade dans les Alpes Maritimes,
J-C Raibaud; Selection in Topos a la Carte/Band 1 Klettern in Sudfrankreich, M
Lochner 1992.
- Castillon at Menton.
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Serious hard, seriously steep tufa crag;
sheltered valley-side crag with a distant view of the Mediterranean. Grades 6b+
to 9a. Medium-length, slightly rough horizontal approach path ends in an awkward
rock step. The base is a large sloping slab; only suitable for supervised
competent older children equipped with a GameBoy. Winter and mid-season
mornings. Guidebook: Guide des ecoles d'escalade des vallees Roya-Bevera.
- Sospel at Menton.
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Pleasant minor hillside crag hidden on the French/Italian border only
a very short drive from the sea at Menton. Grades: 5 - 7. Winter and mid-season.
Easy medium-length approach through deserted terraces. Generally safe base.
Guidebook: Guide des ecoles d'escalade des vallees Roya-Bevera.
- Mazet Plage, Ardeche.
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Friendly river valley crags, well set back from the water across gravel
wastelands and a tree/shrub zone. Grades from 4 to 7c mainly easier grades; well
polished on the more popular ones. Mid-season. Guidebook: Sites d'escalade de
l'Ardeche, regular editions and reprints; Small selection in French Rock, Bill
Birkett 1993
- Bouldering circuits near Mazet Plage.
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Small relatively easy
limestone bouldering circuits hidden in a wooded karstic maze above Mazet
Plage.Mid season. Child friendly but easy to get lost (and Mazet Plage is
somewhere, note, below). Guidebook: Sites d'escalade de l'Ardeche, regular
editions and reprints.
- Chaulet Plage, Ardeche.
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Attractive (canoe) river bank site
with just enough space for picnics. Good selection of grades 3 - 8; well
polished on the easier ones. Mid-season. Needs spare adult as the river is deep
to the edge but superb bathing for the supervised swimmers. Fish eating water
snakes for company; cute. Guidebook: Sites d'escalade de l'Ardeche, regular
editions and reprints.
- Seynes in Languedoc.
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Major crag for the tufa-lover, situated on
hillside above scrubby garrigue country; good range of grades from 3a to 8b.
Medium length path leads to generally safe base (flat rock platform). Full-on
south with only some bushes for shade; winter and mid-season. Guidebook: Les
Falaises de Seynes, S Imbert 1999; Selection in Topos a la Carte/Band 1 Klettern
in Sudfrankreich, M Lochner 1992; Small selection in French Rock, Bill Birkett
1993; Grimper magazine No 7 March/April 1995; Grimper magazine No 44 April 2000
(no topo)
- Russan, Gorge of the River Gard, Languedoc.
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Along the rim of the gorge,
high above impressive (canoeists') river. Grades 4b to 8c; a wide range of
grades with impressive golden tufa wall classics in the 8s. Long rough drive in
to the car park in the middle of the garrigue, then medium-length descent to
crags (...parking has now changed and there is an additional
1.5km from the new 'road end'). Eastern end has an easy rough track, but central descent
has scree and
small steps. Very adventurous might belay abseiling older children directly down
dome-like pothole to arrive at the base of the crag; exciting for the spirited,
terrifying for the parents. Base stony but generally safe. Small trees provide
some sun shelter. Sunny winter or mid-season. Guidebook: Collias et Russan 1998.
Selection in Topos a la Carte/Band 1 Klettern in Sudfrankreich, M Lochner 1992;
Grimper magazine No 2 Juin 1994.
- Collias, Gorge of the River Gard, Languedoc.
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Small crags, close to the (canoeists') river at the entrance to the gorge.
Grades 2a -8b, wide range but not many in the higher grades. Idyllic. Very easy
short riverside approach past riverbank cafe. Gently sloping land below the
crags. Winter and mid-season. Pont du Gard nearby for educative discourse with
older children. Guidebook: Collias et Russan 1998. Selection in Topos a la
Carte/Band 1 Klettern in Sudfrankreich, M Lochner 1992.
- Claret, Languedoc.
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Crag of roofs along rim of attractive open hillside; mainly 6 - 8s. Easy walk in and
reasonably child-friendly base (though exposed to the sun). Sunny Winters and
mid-season. Guidebook: Claret 1993
- le Thaurac, Languedoc.
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Mid-winter crags, 30 minutes north of Montpellier. Sheltered south faces (mainly F5s and 6s)
plus east and west facing crags in the gorge with routes primarily F6s and F7s. Some new F8s.
Single and multi-pitch. Some crags OK for taking children but others, including the Mur de
Lamentations, involves ledge access: OK for sensible older children.
Guidebook: Escalades au Thaurac, F Roumanille and J-L Fabre 2002;
Grimper magazine, No 34 Nov/Dec 1998
- Saint-Bauzille de Montmel, Languedoc.
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Rim of
short but pleasant crags along the top of a circular hill. Open position. Many
routes, mainly short Grades 4 to 8 but mainly 6s and 7s.. Easy medium length
walk-in with child-friendly base, though prickly in parts. Sunny winters and
mid-season. Guidebook: Escalade a Saint-Bauzille de Montmel., M Tabart et al.;
Grimper magazine, No 43 February/March 2000 (no topo)
- La Clape, Languedoc coast.
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Set of low pine-covered hills plastered with small pleasant crags, within
spitting distance of wind-surfing beaches. Grades 4 to 7 but mainly easy routes.
Short easy walk-ins and largely child-friendly bases. The guidebook does mention
however that large child-eating holes await the unsuspecting at the base of one
of the crags. Sunny winters and mid-season; summers don't get much hotter. A
bizarre resurgence/swimming and diving hole/water-snake habitat is nearby.
Guidebook: La Clape, A Berche 1990; small article, some topos in Grimper magazine No 57
Sept/Oct 2001.
Additional information is welcome