kirklees climbing

JURA, Pre-ALPS, ALPS

This page provides information on valley crags in the French Alps and the limestone pre-Alps (including the Jura mountains). Additional information by Andy Say..
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La Fauconniere, French Jura.
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Small pleasant quarry in quiet location; grades 2 - 7b, mainly easy. Not a major venue but very easy access and very safe cliff-foot environment. Even the small snakes found there are of the harmless variety. Useful little crag if you're passing. Guidebook: Jura plaisir, J von Kanel 1993
Foron near Taninges, Haut Savoie.
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Fabuluous crag for the mid-grade thug; leaning, jug-strewn, with stunning views towards Mont Blanc. Grades 6a+ - 8b; mainly 7s. However the approach is a fairly short, steep (sometimes slippery) path up a grassy hillside. Worse still, most of the routes start from a slightly crumbly side gully. There are little grass platforms, set back, for a quiescent older child. Not the best place for climbing with children as close supervision would be needed. The grandad of all marmots can provide some interest. The lower part of the crag has a flatter base sheltered by friendly trees. Mid-season/summer mornings. Guidebook: Escalade Haut Chablais, F Morand. Grimper magazine No. 33 Sept/Oct 1998
Anthon near Cluses, Haut Giffre.
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A reasonable roadside crag in pleasant location overlooking a valley which would be serene if it wasn't for the fact that there's a lot of local traffic on what should be a quiet country lane. Range of grades: spread from 4s to 8b; but few at the higher grade. Flat base adjacent to the tarmac. Mid-season; not much shelter in summer. Guidebook: Grimpe en Haut-Giffre, G Brenas et al.
Suet near Cluses, Haut Giffre.
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Interesting crag located in sloping pine forest. Grades 6-8, mainly Sevens. Easier routes polished. Short walk, gently uphill though forest along easy path. Fairly flat safe base. Mid-season, though some shade from trees in summer. Guidebook: Grimpe en Haut-Giffre, G Brenas et al.
Le Cruz Haute-Savoie.
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A steep crag of good rock covered in crimps and side pulls. Situated in deep pine woods close to a picnic stream. Ten minute easy walk to a flat and generally safe base. F5 to 8a+ (the best being 7b+ to 8a). OK on summer mornings or mid-season. Guidebook: Vallees de l'Arve et du Risse. G Brunot 2002
Les Tines, Haut Giffre.
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Big north-face summer crag with single and some multiple pitch routes, situated some distance from a large river. Easily accessible routes are mainly 6s and 7s with some easier polished horrors. Short easy walk and fairly innocuous base. Plenty of sticks from adjacent scrubland for making swords. Guidebook: Grimpe en Haut-Giffre, G Brenas et al.
SuperVanoise at Pont St Antoine at Bourg-St Maurice, Vanoise.
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SuperVanoise, the crag nearest the roadside, is a vertical schist face with hard-to-read routes in the 6c-7c range all set in a rather austere high Alpine valley (with gushing river). Summer to late season. The crag is only a few minutes walk from the road but the base has rather steep grass beneath. Not for an unaccompanied small child but the valley (and boulders) below the crag is suitable for picnicing in very impressive surroundings. Hydro river; beware sudden rise in water level. Guidebook: Le topo de la Vanoise, P Deslandes et al. 1995
Notre Dame du Pre, near Moutiers, Vanoise.
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Rocher du Glaisy lies about 10k east of Moutiers in the Vanoise. Drive up windy road to idyllic camping. Seventeen sectors with about 250 routes dotted about in woods facing all directions hence shade to be found for much of the day. Mainly easy routes on 'upper tier' with harder routes lower on hill. Easy access and safe bases to nearly all upper sectors. Buvette just below main sector for lollies; also sells topo and map of area. (Andy Say)
Ecole d'escalade du Torchet, near Moutiers, Vanoise.
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Near Champagny en Vanoise (15 km from Moutiers). Photocopy topo free from Tourist Info in Champagny. Slabs with flat gravel base and seats and shade through nearly all the day. Parking for 5/6 cars very close to the crag. Downside is that the road runs very close to the crag but thick trees mask that quite a bit. For photo of place see p160 in Jingo Wobbly Europe guide. Twenty-four routes from 4c to 6b. (Andy Say)
Blocs de Ceris, near Les Arcs, Vanoise.
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Small group of schist boulders in idyllic Alpine pasture. Limited number of attractive problems at Font 4 - 7a (but, quote, "Font grades are soft": local mountain guide). Two minutes access, perfect flat base, shadow or sun; perfect for small child. Mid-season. Via ferrata a few minutes drive up the valley, at the gateway to the Vanois National Park (waterfalls, ibex etc) Guidebook: Le topo de la Vanoise, P Deslandes et al. 1995
La Chamblotte, Aix les Bains.
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Vast west-facing crag, with loads of routes, sited a million miles above the fabuluous Lac du Bourget. Wide spread of grades: 5 - 8c+. Mid-season or summer mornings. Fairly short,easy, level, tree-sheltered walk in from the col road. Generally safe forest-shaded patches below the crag. Water parks and lakes (and up-market shopping) nearby. Guidebook: Escalades autour du Lac du Bourget, P Mussatto 1995; Grimper magazine No 49 Sept/Oct 2000 (no topo)
Virieux le Grand in the Bugey range, near Belley.
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Strange minor craglets at valley edge next to a marsh. Avoid in Summer. Grades 4 to 7. Easy flat path through bird-filled thickets. Flat, very safe base in parts, elsewhere easy scree to easy stoney base. Jovial campsite next to lake (with summer rock bands) nearby, but beware the Midnight Express. Guidebook: Roc' in Bugey, J-C. Berrard
Seillonnaz in the Bugey range near Belley.
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Secluded crags, 6s and 7s, mid-season. Moderate uphill walk through woodland to get to the crag. Path hacked between dense forest and rock follows the base. Not particularly unsafe for children, but not particularly comfortable or interesting. Guidebook: Roc' in Bugey, J-C. Berrard
Neuville sur Ain in the Northern Bugey.
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Easy walk along level track to access crag. Some sectors up short scree paths with unattractive bases but one of the main sectors is beside the track. Easy routes well polished and under graded. Evening shade. New guide (Roc in Bugey) available at the Phaisan d' Or in centre of Neuville. Only really worth it if passing and in need of a break. (Andy Say).
Pont-du-Fosse, near Gap, Hautes Alpes.
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Wet weather alternative to Ceuse (with its child-unfriendly one hour uphill walk), in pleasant Alpine valley. Very steep juggy crag, Sixes and good Sevens (but Sixes are polished). Mid-season and summer afternoons. Easy short walk-in and flat dusty base; a reasonable place for children to get digging. Major plan d'eau just down the valley; nice slide. Guidebook: Grimper dans les Hautes Alpes Tome 3: Ceuse, Champsaur, Devoluy, Ventavon, 1996
Le Sapet at Briancon, Haut Durance.
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Variety of grades, 5s to 7s, in attractive Alpine valley with good river/picnic zone nearby. Summer season, afternoons, late season. Fairly easy walk in, uphill. Base has sloping areas with trees but some dubious rock so beware fall-out zone. Guidebook: Grimper dans le Haut Val Durance, Y Rolland et al. 1998
Rocher du Bez at Serre Chevalier, near Briancon, Haut Durance.
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Pleasant minor multi-pitch/single pitch volcanic crag in attractive Alpine setting, only a (fairly) short walk from bustling ski resort. Grades 3 to 6, mainly easy. Summer season. Pleasant shady with trees, pine needles and picnic bench at base. Guidebook: Grimper dans le Haut Val Durance, Y Rolland et al. 1998
Rocher Baron Haut Durance.
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Not limestone (!) but quartzite very reminiscent of a solid, vertical, jug-infested Holyhead Mountain. Easy drive up track to parking in meadow. Ten seconds walk to nearest rock. Wide range of grades on three sectors; the right hand sectors habe grades 4+ to 6c with good bases and ace outlook. New Durance guide available now in some places. (Andy Say)
Les Vignettes at Argentiere la Besse, Haut Durance.
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Strange set of small steep crags in impressive Alpine setting, high above a gorge in the Upper Durance. One easy crag (Grades 4 to 6) plus others harder (steep Sevens). Mid-season/summer season. Despite dubious rock, there are many pleasant terraced areas out of harm's way. Moderate length descent from the road, easy grassy path back at the end of the day when it feels twice as steep with a small child on one's back. Guidebook: Grimper dans le Haut Val Durance, Y Rolland et al. 1998
Tournoux at Valloise, Haut Durance.
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High altitude sport crags with superb views from pine clad hillside. The south-facing crag has easy access and a reasonable base with short and rather bouldery F6s and 7s. The north facing crag however starts from a fairly exposed ramp. Hopeless for children; a sensible older child could get there but there's little flat land or protection from stone-fall. F7s and 8s. Good conditions in high summer. Guidebook: Grimper dans le Haut Val Durance, Y Rolland et al. 2002
Falaise du Grand Boid at Valloise, Haut Durance.
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An easy via ferrata crosses terraces on a steep forested hillside to reach a flat shelf above which rises some of the best rock in the Haut Durance - rough and featured, once you get over the steep starts. Mainly low F7s. Excellent mid-summer conditions. However not suitable for kids. Guidebook: Grimper dans le Haut Val Durance, Y Rolland et al. 2002
L'Oratoire and Beauregard at Argentiere la Besses, Haut Durance.
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Small steep minor crags (6 to 7s) too close to the main road to be beautiful, but far enough for children not to stray on to it. Very interesting rock (tufa/limestone/conglomerate). Base is reasonable. Mid-season/summer mornings. Guidebook: Grimper dans le Haut Val Durance, Y Rolland et al. 1998
Les Collets and Horloge at Argentiere la Besse, Haut Durance.
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Small crags of peculiar metamorphosed limestone. Mainly easy routes. Generally safe base, including one large flat area, highly suitable for games and picnics on an elevated site above the village. A single pitch via ferrata, available for older children and church-goers taking a direct approach, at the centre of the crag. Summer afternoons and mid-season. Guidebook: Grimper dans le Haut Val Durance, Y Rolland et al. 1998
Bec de l'Ase, Haut Durance.
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Not many routes but a superb crag, on super rock above an Alpine valley, mainly Sevens. North-facing summer crag. Pleasant medium length walk slanting uphill through woodland. Although the base has a small, reasonably safe area, there are danger zones below and one particular nasty bad step to reach it. Just feasible with a sensible child plus a safety rope for the bad step. Guidebook: Grimper dans le Haut Val Durance, Y Rolland et al. 1998
Saint Crepin, Haut Durance.
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Somewhat over-rated crag of the valley, mainly 6s and 7s. On open hillside, low down in the valley. Mid-season and summer mornings. Short easy access and generally friendly base. Guidebook: Grimper dans le Haut Val Durance, Y Rolland et al. 1998; Selection in Topos a la Carte/Band 1 Klettern in Sudfrankreich, M Lochner 1992.
Chanteloube, Haut Durance.
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Minor crag on rocky knoll in attractive location overlooking a broad Alpine valley. Short easy polished routes. Very easy short access and child friendly base. Mid season and summer evenings. Groups use it. Guidebook: Grimper dans le Haut Val Durance, Y Rolland et al. 1998
Barachin, Haut Durance.
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Average crag with 6s and 7s. Scenic location above the Haute Durance Valley but a scrubby rough descent, not dangerous but not easy, to get to the only 'fair' base. Not a particularly interesting spot from a child's point of view either. Mid-season/summer afternoons. Guidebook: Grimper dans le Haut Val Durance, Y Rolland et al. 1998
Le Pouit, Haut Durance
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Excellent crag, 6s and 7s, though getting polished in parts. Beautiful open location above alpine meadows/flowers etc. Close, easy access, path below crag with grass slopes below. Not particularly flat though. Picnic sites abound within a minute or so. Summer mornings/mid-season. Guidebook: Grimper dans le Haut Val Durance, Y Rolland et al. 1998; Selection in Topos a la Carte/Band 1 Klettern in Sudfrankreich, M Lochner 1992.
Mountdauphin North Face, Haut Durance.
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Small crag - with cult following - below castle walls. Only a few routes but wonderfully interesting conglomerate; 6s and 7s. Easy walk though woods. Sandy safe base but slopes somewhat. North face, summer location; well out of the sun. Potentially loose holds; keep out of drop zone. Care: clumsy tourists on castle walls above. Castellated village to explore. Guidebook: Grimper dans le Haut Val Durance, Y Rolland et al. 1998; Selection in Topos a la Carte/Band 1 Klettern in Sudfrankreich, M Lochner 1992.
Reotier, Haut Durance.
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Big boulders and small crags by minor road overlooking the Haute Durance Valley. Good views but unremarkable as a climbing site but very easy access. Midseason/Summer season. Guidebook: Grimper dans le Haut Val Durance, Y Rolland et al. 1998
Clapeyto in the Queyras.
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In the Queyras region, through Guillestre and head for Col de l'Isoard). In the Haut Durance guidebook. Lovely surroundings with enormous football pitch/picnic site meadow, 200 metres from one set of crags (two limestone slabs with 10 routes 4b - 6a; grades stiff unless you like slabs.) Base a bit cramped but picnic tables 25 metres away. If babysitters available, the newly developed crag on the other side of the meadow looks very good but base is not kiddie-friendly and the nearest safe spot is on a hot, dusty and quite busy dirt track. (Andy Say)
Tamee in the Vercors.
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New crags developed in the lower Vercors, near the Choranche gorge. 10-15 minutes walk and a reasonably child-friendly base area. Mid-season crags, too hot in summer,with grades from F6s upwards but mainly 7s and 8s. See Grimper magazine in summer 2004.
Tina Dalle, Choranche Gorge, Vercors.
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Stunning wall of tufa routes (mainly 7s and 8s) way, way above the Choranche Gorge. Mid-season and early summer mornings. Virtually next to small road over the col. Convenient flat base; largely child proof other than one rock step. Sometimes, a huge (30m) rope swing. Guidebook: Grimper en Isere, D Duhaut 1998; Grimper magazine No 22 April/May 1997
Pierrot's Beach, Choranche Gorge, Vercors.
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A good and varied sport crag at the base of the main Choranche cliff line (6s, 7s and 8s plus some futuristic lines). Mid season or summer mornings. Easily reached from the show cave (cafe, etc), fairly short walk but uphill. Generally safe base, but be aware of huge cliff above with loose offerings (i.e climbers on multi-pitch). Caves and resurgences to explore plus their unique inhabitants. Guidebook: Grimper en Isere, D Duhaut 1998; Grimper magazine No 22 April/May 1997
La Fauge, Vercors.
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String of minor crags set in woodland in sub-Alpine valley (Grades 2 to 7c, mainly easy). Pleasant medium length walk in. Base is flat, safe, child-friendly environment. Mid-season and summer. Guidebook: Grimper en Isere, D Duhaut 1998
Correncon, Vercors.
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Minor crags set in slightly spooky forest setting on hillside above ski resort; Grades 4 to 8. Mid-season and summer. Medium length walk in, getting lost up forest rides. Some bases are reasonable but, generally, not an attractive site for children unless they like trolls, evil elves etc. Guidebook: Grimper en Isere, D Duhaut 1998
Gorge d'Ombleze, Drome.
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Lots of sectors tucked away into a wooded gorge where streams and resurgences pour out of every available hole. Shady, so good for summer. Range of grades from 4 to 8s. Very short walks to all the gorge crags and some of the crags have child friendly bases; one of the best buttresses (7s and 8s) starts off a car free tarmac track up above the main gorge road. Rock isn't always solid so beware flying stones if busy. Moulin de Pipe restaurant/cafe/entertainments a short walk away. Guidebook: Ombleze, F Marion et al.
Les Auberts, Drome.
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Relatively new, steep, tufa-laced crag in attractive mountain setting (Grades 6 - 8); mid-season and summer mornings. Pleasant, downward-sloping approach (less pleasant coming back in the afternoon sun). Pine needle base generally safe and moderately interesting for children. Beware: climbers pulling off tufa above; small furry creatures which nip, living deep inside the crack lines on the left-hand buttress (really). Guidebook: topo at http://perso.wanadoo.fr/denis.benoit/LesAuberts.htm. Also topo in Grimper magazine No 57, Sept/Oct 2001.
Romeyer, near Die, Drome.
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Crags on an escarpment cut through by an attractive small river. Wide range of grades, from 5s to 8s. Northern area has roadside beach belays (river needs supervision, regarding children and cooling beer, both of which can easily wash away). Southern area has steep but safe pine wood track leading in a short distance, past easy crags to a new steep area (morning shade). Beware falling sika. Mid-season and summer mornings. Guidebook: Diois escalade et canyons, V Pitte et al. 1996; new edition due in 2001; Vertical magazine, March 2001.
La Beaume Rousse, Buis-les-Baronnies.
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Varied and attractive climbing (Grades 4s to 8s) in pleasantly wooded, semi-circular coomb in the mountainside high above the main valley. Mid-season and summer shadow (as the sun moves around). Short, fairly steep but not dangerous walk in. Other than one rock step (beware because the cave above it is a child magnet), the base is child-friendly with terraces, tree shelter, large shy non-poisonous snakes etc. Guidebook: La Beaume Rousse/Lou Pass d'Annibal; Grimper magazine No13 Dec/Jan 1996
Ubrieux, Buis-les-Baronnies.
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Roadside (initially) crags with steep slabs, Grades 4-6. The easier ones, on the popular left-hand end, turn into mirrors when the sun arrives in the afternoon. As the crag base rises rightwards away from the road, the ground becomes steeply scrubby. Mid-season and summer mornings. Good bathing river on the opposite side of the road. Guidebooks: Buis-les-Baronnies, V Isely 1992; Small selection in French Rock, Bill Birkett 1993
Lou Passo d'Annibal, Buis les Baronnies.
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Beach belays by bathing river. One minute below the road; take Tevas to wade. Base is flat and sheltered by trees. River supervision needed for non-swimming children. Beware loose holds. Grades either very easy ie 3 - 5) or steep (and hard for the grade) 7s and 8s. Often polished by river and/or human. Mid-season; just swim in the summer. Guidebook: La Beaume Rousse/Lou Pass d'Annibal.
Le Saint-Julien at Buis-les-Baronnies.
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Huge fin gives multi-pitch and single-pitch grey slabs: grade 6s in the main. Well-worn routes; and avoid the guidebook descent route which is (partially) equipped with old toilet chains. Medium-length hike leads to reasonably flat base in pine trees above a sloping hillside. However the crag foot feels very exposed to stone fall and there is loose rock at the crest of the fin; in fact, the traverse of the fin is now taboo. Not a good place to take children. Guidebook: Buis-les-Baronnies, V Isely
Trois Rivieres, Buis les Baronnies.
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Peculiar poor-imitation Buoux in rather dour north-facing woodland in low open valley. Many routes (5s to 8s) but with an air of neglect. Fairly easy medium length approach through woodland; bases generally safe but unappealing. Only merit seems to be summer shade. Guidebook: No topo but list available in Buis Tourist Office.
Bellecombe-Tarandol, Drome.
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Fin of rock in the idiom of the Drome gives steep grey slabs; grades 6 -7. Scrubby wide rising terrace for the base; some small patches in which to tether children but not much space or interest value for them. Approach has one awkward steep area with a fixed rope. Not impossible to visit... but not great. Mid-season crag, shade in the mornings. Guidebook: Topo in Tourist Office at Buis les Baronnies, 1998.
Saint-Leger du Ventoux (La Baleine), Northern Provence.
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New trendy high-grade spot on wooded north and south slopes of fabulous open valley. Mainly steep tufa-laced walls and caves, with routes in 7s and especially 8s. Gorgeous small river; picnics and bathing. Short to medium length, fairly flat, walk ins; but longer, scrubbier paths to the farthest crags. Bases generally flat, rocky orsandy and safe but the holds are noticeably vunerable to gravity; keep from under heavy climbers. Mid-season or summer on the North Face. Guidebook: Grimper magazine No 41 September/October 1999 (no topo); recent topo on internet site (http://www.piedsniques.com/page16.html and http://perso.club-internet.fr/michej/page16.html)
Orpierre in Northern Provence.
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Major set of crags in hill region, popular with the British, nearby friendly village, cafe and campsite. Mid-season. Many well bolted juggy routes in Grades 5 to 6 but now there are interesting long steep Sevens to Low Eights. Easy short walks up to the crags and fairly safe base above sloping bushstrewn slopes. Some loose holds and belay areas may feel in the firing line, especially in view of the area's popularity. Small paddling area at head of stream. Guidebook: Orpierre/Val de Meouge; many editions; Selection in Topos a la Carte/Band 1 Klettern in Sudfrankreich, M Lochner 1992; Small selection in French Rock, Bill Birkett 1993; Grimper magazine No 42 Nov/Dec 1999/Jan 2000 (no topo)

Additional information is welcome