kirklees climbing
FRANCE (North & West)
This page provides information on crags in the west, around the
Dordogne, and in the north, primarily at Fontainebleau.
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- Gorges du Tarn Massif Central
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Major set of crags up the gorge from Millau. Most routes tend to be Grades Sevens or above
and climb fabulous pocketed wall next to, or from shelves just above the road. The routes are
often very long (30+ metres), surprisingly unboring (for pockets) but often sportingly runout.
A major venue for summer (owing to the varied aspects). Although some sectors would be OK for
kids, some of the better ones (such as Planete Causse) would be unsafe owing to their exposed
position on relatively narrow ledges 10-15 metres above the road. A well trained older
child might be alright on the wider wooded terrace of L'Oasif. Otherwise, campsites
virtually on the doorstep and an excellent beginners river with innumerable hire canoes.
Guidebook: Le Tarn, Club Alpin Francais 2000.
- Ceou, Dordogne.
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Major crag located in wide side-valley off the River Dordogne.
The crag stands on the valley rim with pleasant woodlands below. Despite being limestone, the feel is The Roaches meets Fontainbleau with bolts.
The best is good (technical rather than steep) and the worst is, well, The Roaches meets Fontainbleau i.e. the sandy bits and the (many) run-out sections. Mainly Grades 4 to 7.
The approach is quite long and gradually uphill but pleasant along good woodland paths. The crag base is safe with many interesting caves/troglodite dwellings which smell strongly of lager.
In fact if your family likes lager, canoeing, chips and English-style traffic jams (with real English cars), then this could be the place for you.
Guidebook: Escalades au Ceou, F Thibaudeau 1997.
- Fontainebleau, just south of Paris.
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A life-time of sandstone boulders scattered through low wooded hills
around a chateau-town. Every conceivable grade from children's circuits to the impossible. Most boulderers drool over the place but, for those who don't, the approaches with children are at least only short to medium;
the modern hi-tech child-buggy can be hauled along most of the often sandy approaches. Bases are invariably child-friendly. You won't be there in the summer but take loads
of woolly things in winter as it can be arctic.
Avoid octogenarian locals because the myths are true.
Guidebook: Various including Stephen Gough's excellent Bleau, 1997.
Additional information is welcome