Bruixes: the Catalan Temple of Tufa

Only weeks after booking a winter trip to the Spanish Pre-Pyrenees, the magazines splashed their photos of Bruixes, the new super sport crag... and, with Bruixes, the Lleida province is now complete with climbing to suit everyone.

Most people associate the area north of Leida with long multi-pitch, free and aided routes on the huge south faces of Terradets, Vilanova de Meia and other limestone mountains in the Montsec Range; a Spanish Yosemite, sort of! However there are also many shorter sport crags in the area although most of these offer single-pitch slabby Verdon-style routes. Quality examples include the mid-winter-only venue of Perles and the underdeveloped Abbeye de la Conca with routes stretching into very smooth looking F8s. The brand new Vilanova de Meia guidebook also shows an increase in the short stuff, on its blocky, horizontally bedded rock. Also nearby is the giant Rubicon that is St Llorenc de Montgai, a Spanish favourite which, even though it looks 'bitty' at closer inspection, has at least very rough rock. Coll de Nargo has attractive, mainly easier grades and the Collegats gorge holds stunning conglomerate (though information might be hard to find). In short, this beautiful area is stuffed with great crags, only a couple of hours from Barcelona and yet with the snows of the main Pyrenees chain clearly visible to the north. All it needed was something really... something you could REALLY wrap your hands around... something... well, something tufa-ish.



And then came the Paret de les Bruixes, the Witches' Crag; a full-blown 30m wave with tangled curtains and columns in the lower half, easing back (just) slightly into a crozzly final wall. Looking down and into the water of the Terradets lake, you have the option of a few warm ups rapidly followed by a couple of classic 7a+s. Beyond that there's enough quality 7b+s to keep you going for several days. But the real terrain is for those operating in the 7c+/8a+ range and it's a pleasure to watch French and Spanish families, with 10 to 60 year olds, stylishly cruising between picnics. For the really strong, the top grades run up to 8c+. This is a world-class crag and, with Bruixes, the area is complete.

Where?
From Barcelona head north west towards the Pyrenees and the city of Lleida (Lerida). From here, head up the Noguera valley (towards Tremp) or towards the Alt Urgell on the Andorra road.

When?
Generally way too hot in summer and it is usually quite possible to climb through the winter. The climate here tends to be cold and very dry in winter (but calm conditions and sunshine make midwinter feel quite reasonable). In normal years, there is a damp couple of weeks at the seasonal 'turnover' in late Autumn and in Spring/end of March, though in recent years the weather has been more unpredictable.

Where to Stay?
The climbers' bar in Vilanova de Meia seems pretty sorted and has suitable and cheap rooms. Also centrally located in the superbly isolated Casa Pete y Lou at the deserted village of Tolo. Pete and Lou have relinquished Yorkshire in order to provide bed and breakfast from their solar-heated, organically-farmed base and can provide you with topos as well as info on local walking/birdwatching. Highly recommended and only 10 minutes from Vilanova de Meia and 15 minutes from Bruixes. Give them a ring on +34 625 941001

Info?
Escalar No 27 (The Catalunya special edition) has topo for Bruixes plus selected info for other crags in this area. Order this from the Desnivel Office.
Grimper No 66 Nov/Dec 2002/Jan 2003 has the topo and photos of Bruixes.
The Bruixes topo can also be located at www.onaclimb.com ,this has some soft touch grades so get this one!
In English, a crag description and topo for Bruixes can be found at www.cragx.com
In 2005, Luis Alfonso and Xavier Buxo brought out an excellent new edition of the Terradets guide which includes all the necessary Bruixes details. This can be bought through the Desnivel website.
The Vilanova de Meia guidebook is brand new and can be bought at the climbers' café in Vilanova. This guide covers several other crags including Abeya de la Conca.
Perles and Col de Nargo can be found in the Alt Urgel guidebook; this is still available; try the Desnivel shop in Madrid.
The Terradets guidebook only contains the multi-pitch routes and is still available.
However the Noguera guidebook which covered Sant Llorenc and Camarasa seems to be out-of print.
Similarly, info for Collegats might (or might not) only be available in the nearby village/campsite.
The Desnivel August edition is a guide to all Spanish crags; there are some selected topos. This enormous database is also online at www.desnivel.es


PHOTOS:

Photo 1 The main Pyrenees chain is about one hour away and in winter is scattered with small but pleasant family ski resorts. In summer, those distant granite mountains (the Aigues Tortes) contain Cavallars and other crags; bolted and trad single and multi-pitch climbing for the hot season.
Photo 2 The crags and deserted village of Abella de la Conca; terrifying blank (and seriously hard) climbing in the Verdon idiom. Loads of room for development for those with the time and a drill.
Photo 3 Vilanova de Meia village and just a very small selection of its crags in the background.
Photo 4 The Terradets Gorge starts where the reservoir ends. The gorge's massive faces are hidden from view in this picture and the small crags which are visible are totally undeveloped... apart from
Photo 5 the Pared de les Bruixes, which can be seen ten minutes up the opposite hillside, above the dam. The walk-in has a short via ferrata (8 metres), to get out of the parking, so don't bring granny or the kids unless you're prepared to set up a safety line. The rest of the walk and the base of the crag is very safe.
Photo 6 Bruixes: a crag to drool over. There are figures on the rock.
Photo 7 Under the breaking wave... Occident, F7c at Bruixes.
Photo 8 'Doncaster' Drew goes for the flash on Primera Linea, F8a, at Bruixes.
Photo 9 Sunrise over the main Montsec ridge, from Casa Pete y Lou, the superb B&B just 15 minutes drive from Bruixes.
Photo 10 Ruth Planells on Latido del Miendo at Bruixes, F8a. Source: Escalar magazine.
Photo 11 Pasta sin Aqua
Photo 12 Casa Pete y Lou, the superb organically-farmed, solar powered B&B at Tolo, run by Yorkshire's own Pete and Lou!
Photos 13 and 14 Dave Cross on the fabulous Occident, F7c, at Bruixes.




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