kirklees climbing
NORWOOD
A brand new bouldering venue, near Otley in West Yorkshire
by Robin Warden, Amanda Phillips, Ross Williams, Simon Marsdon and Matt Wilcox.
Intro
Norwood sits upon a forested hill beneath Hunter Stones, in Stainburn Forest. Recent activities of the logging variety have given light to a handful of
charming boulders, offering problems of quality on sound rock. Fantastic vistas, afternoon sun and only five minutes from the road make this a worthy
location for boulders of all abilities.This new area offers a wide variety of bouldering, from technical slabs, steep walls, highball classics, sustained lips and butch caves all on quality
rough grit.
Approach
Approach from Otley direction, over the Lindley Wood reservoir bridge, past Dob Park turning on left, tight left bend, car park on left in small
wooded area. Cross road to gate into forest, take immediate left small path parallel with road, heading up hillside towards a clearing. Boulders can be
seen before they are reached!
Norwood has been developed, documented and cleaned by Robin Warden, Amanda Phillips and Ross Williams over a four week frenzy, including night shift
activity by Simon Marsdon and Matt Wilcox. Several felled trees were moved from around the boulders and gardening fanatic Amanda Phillips began her work.
Bankside Block
A compact boulder with good problems that pack a punch, offering some good warm ups and a few hards. Flat landings.
1 Lumber 6a+ (V4) FA Robin Warden. SS on rail to left hole to small finger pocket, up left to large hole, top.
2 5c (V2) FA Robin Warden. To large hole from start of Lumber.
3 Jack 6a+ (V4) FA Robin Warden. SS to rail on lip, up left to large hole, top.
4 6a (5c) (V3) FA Ross Williams. SS to rail on lip, finish right.
5 6a+ (V4) SS to small pinch, lurch to edges direct.
6 6a (V3) FA Ross Williams. SS to lip, to small pockets, right to jug, top.
7 5b (V1) FA Amanda Phillips. As for 6, but from standing.
plus
7a SS V6. FA Matt Wilcox. Bottom left corner, up diagonally on crimps, reaching round to high rail on face across to top right corner
7b SS V7 FA Matt Wilcox. Bottom left corner, up diagonally on crimps to twin pocket and mono, through to pocket above then top right. Painful.
Toad Block
A small perched block, with a hole to the sky! Good landings.
8 SS (V3) Head Plant (from 3rd Ascent's stylish dismount!) Front block through the roof to set back pocket, stylish rock over or grind round the lip.
9 Sky Hole 5a (V0) FA Robin Warden. Up past an unusual hole through which you can see the sky.
9a 4c (V0)
10 5b (V1) FA Amanda Phillips. SS to rail feet initially on left plinth and without right arete, sustained moves lead to top.
plus
10a V4 SS Traverse the boulder below the lip right to left round corner then rock over onto face, better than it looks
Larchbow wall
A deceptively high boulder offering some classic lines, the obvious being the flake of Larchbow which was first climbed by walking up the flake to its
end. Take the pads for this one, as they add to the bounce factor.
11 Larchbow 6a (V4) FA Robin Warden. Follow the flake to its end - swinging left to finish (by hand) - superb!
12 5c (V3) FA Robin Warden. Follow the flake to its end (by foot). Scary but great!
13 5c (V3) FA Robin Warden. Start as for Larchbow, but move on to slab via good holds above flake.
14 6a (V3) FA Robin Warden. The left aręte, without standing on boulder!
Larch Cave
A collection of steep powerful problems with committing top outs and tricky landings.
15 Project
16 Robins Nest 6b (V6) FA Ross Williams. SS hands in bucket, up to crack, continue left for exciting top out - superb!
17 Backbite (6c) (V7) FA Robin Warden. SS from loose hold and deep flake, up right to sharp break, to finish left of runnel on crimps, big move off
crimps. Using runnel for right hand (V6) - either way, superb!
18 Bulge Head 6a (V5) FA Robin Warden. As for Backbite, but go right of runnel using slopper on bulge head, finish direct on crimps and side pulls.
19 6b (V6) FA Simon Marsdon. Starting at Robins nest, finishing over Bulge Head.
Twitchers' Hide
Further up the hill, lies this large undercut buttress, offering two problems of quality.
20 6b (V5) FA Ross Williams. Super sustained traverse along the lip. SS from left to right, aręte not in, finishing up the high wall.
21 Falcon (V6) FA Matt Wilcox. SS in cave from low rail, to lip, finish. Tight and powerful!
21c Falcon pro (V6) FA Matt Wilcox. SS in cave from low rail out right to pocket on lip – up to finish. Powerful and tight!
Diamond Block
An isolated boulder perched upon the hill side, offering a host of powerful sustained lines, on Gaudi-esque rock. Flat landings.
21a 5c (V3) FA Ross Williams. SS beneath under cut aręte, from loose hold up to leftward rail, not using plinth at half way for feet.
21b 4c (V0)
22 Ross’s Rockover 6a (V3) FA Ross Williams. Start as for 21, but head right to good grips for the rock-over to top.
23 5a (V1) FA Amanda Phillips. SS using large sockets and feet on plinth, pull to sloper on lip and then to top using small but good holds.
24 Squat 5c (V2) FA Amanda Phillips. SS from under right nose, into sockets to join 23.
A&R Wall
This wall hosts classic challenges on clean rock. Flat landings.
25 Squitter 5a (V1) FA Amanda Phillips. SS hands in break, using edges up centre of wall direct. Good moves, classic!
26 6a (V3) FA Ross Williams. SS below high mono. To the top using mono. Classic!
Horse head
This boulder sits above Banksides. Offering problems of balance and delight.
27 Equine 5b (V2) FA Robin Warden. SS in front break, reach to left aręte and climb direct to jug on same aręte.
28 Twelve hands 6a (V3) FA Robin Warden. SS Tackles face direct via two flakes, gain mono on lip stretch to jug out left to finish. All arętes out of bounds (!)…at this grade.
29 Project As for 12 hands but eliminating mono for big slopers . Desperate!
Below Banksides sits a small undercut boulder offering worthy challenges:
30 Lovable in Latin 6c (V7) FA Ross Williams. Traverses from left of boulder through bulge and across face on pockets and slots. Hands below top all the way.
Pumpy/painfull classic!
31 Pocket rocket 6a (V6) FA Ross Williams. SS from under roof, blast out up pockets on face.
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