SOMETHING for the WEEKEND sir?

As an internet browser, you will have noticed the low-cost airlines running out to Bergamo in Northern Italy from Stansted, Luton and now from Leeds/Bradford and other regional airports. As a climber, you might also have seen Laura Di Franceso crimping her way up the front cover of the recent guidebook to Bergamo and Breschia ("Arrampicate Sportive e Moderne Fra Bergamo e Breschia"/Versante Sud December 2000). And you may have put the two ideas together? In effect: Something for the Weekend Sir?


There are loads of small limestone crags lurking around the pre-Alps between the Italian Lakes and you may have already visited Arco at the head of Lake Garda. The smaller lake, Lago di Iseo, to the west of Garda, is the subject of an extensive and well-presented guidebook (you can order it from www.SOeScalade.fr and other such sources). A large percentage of the routes in the area seem to be on the inevitable grey slabs a la Verdon) but one particular crag caught my eye (well it would, as it's on the front cover) the Valle dei Mulini. It looked different; steep, crozzly, crimpy rock, orange and red and the guidebook describes it as 'wild and still'. But was it worth doing in a week end? Well, the flights were very early on Saturdays and returned for midnight on Sunday so yes!

The alpine valley climbs quickly up from Bergamo to Castione and in no time at all, you're at 1000m, under the shadow of the superb dolomitic peak of Presolana. At this height, it's cool enough to climb in late May without any problem. Cow bells, pine forests and alpine pastures sound pretty nice but in fact the proximity of nearby big cities, plus the attractions of a cooler summer climate and winter ski resorts like Monte Pora, has converted the road up to the Passo Presolana into an alpine version of Wilmslow ie positively rich and positively suburban. But hang a left out of Castione village and immediately the wilderness closes in and you're into the Valle dei Mulini and on its flank, the crag of Chignol, described as 'the new pearl of the Mulini'.

Ten minutes into the forested ravines and you reach one of the best climbing zones in this area of Italy. Four crags flank the small stream trickling stonily down to civilisation and those on the left look pretty tempting. But the piece de resistance lies on the right (true-left bank) hidden on the forested side slopes of the valley; the delightful Chingol.

It's a select little spot; peering down into the deep still valley. Unlike the other crags, the sun doesn't really get here till afternoon and the trees offer plenty of shelter for belayers. To the lower left, the crag offers nothing special (a steep grey wall with a bunch of well-travelled routes between F5 and F6c), but to the right the rock really gets its act together with a gently leaning 30m wall of rough red and orange rock with two full tufa columns at its centre.


The change from 'average' to 'excellent' is quite abrupt (and conveniently coincides with a levelling of the ground). A pleasant groove-line marks this change; Seconda Mano F6a follows the obvious groove with a wicked crux just before the best belay. By wicked I mean unexpectedly technical for a route of this grade. At full stretch over the final overlap, the rock reverts into a block of mini-Verdon and the desperate scraping of fingernails has done nothing to improve those faint grey runnels. The secret I am not going to tell you; just clip the bolt and think laterally. You can also finish the route by swarming up some polished buckets to reach a higher belay.

Immediately right of the groove you can step out onto Willy Coyote F7a, which is rather short and vicious, scratching up steep thin flakes. This finishes as the same belay as the excellent Bip Bip F6b. Bip Bip is a sustained line, weaving between small sharp sideholds and crimps and this too reserves a special treat for the final moves especially if you're less than 6 foot tall. Fortunately the crag is very well bolted. Bip Bip is a fine route and would possible deserve F6c at many other European crags. The start, stepping over the rough red overlaps at the base, is virtually shared by Cassiopea F7a although, on this line, route-finding dilemmas could well lead you into mischief; once again, it's a good thing all the routes here are sensibly bolted. The final section of this route is well up on the left edge of the main headwall, lurching between jugs with the redpoint crux still to come, and certainly beginning to feel out there for the grade.

To the right again, three lines make a feast of the juggy red base-rock before hitting the fingery leaning headwall. The first two, Doctor Funky F7c and Mister Soul F7c (front cover shot, for those of you who tick guidebook photos) take searing lines up the headwall on tiny flakes, so sharp and so small. If it wasn't for the fact that the hard work is concentrated into a high altitude bouldering sequence, you'd swear both of these were F7c+. The third line however offers a slight contrast: Lancillotto F7c takes advantage of a bucketed groove through the first half of the headwall but, and here's the catch, makes up for such convenience with a withering crux i.e throwing for a three-finger pocket at full power. No excuses though; once convinced, it is in fact possible even at my very average 5 foot 9 inch (but, oh, then there's the balancy over-vertical move on tiny razors to snatch the chain).

Just right, at the centre of the crag, are the two main tufa lines. The right-hand tufa is taken by a new line (not in the guide book), again at F7c, which looks extremely good. As with all the routes, you'll find the name written at the base. Starting from the adjacent spot is the popular Mago Merlino F7b+ (only F7b if you believe the writing in the wall). Thirteen quickdraws in 30 metres are part of the attraction though the route is nevertheless excellent in its own right. Although you may well have the crag to yourself during the week, expect to find the occasional team on this attractive line of pockets, flakes and undercuts. To the right, the grades drop a little but the rock remains steep with three more 30m 12 quickdraw routes; Re Artu F7a+, Elettric Ladyland F7a+ and Mi Si E Rotta La Pompa F7a.

And that lot should keep you busy for the weekend!



How to get there:

Fly to Bergamo (Milan-Bergamo) airport in Northern Italy (1 hour 45 from Stansted). Pick up the main road north-east to the town of Clusone. From here, head out east towards the village of Castione della Presolana (1 hour, dawdling, from Bergamo). In the centre of Castione, turn left and follows signs to the hamlet of Rusio. Big car park here. Follow the stream-bed/parallel hikers' path upstream for a few minutes to a Roman bridge at an obvious stream junction. Cross the bridge and head up the pretty path along the right branch (true-left tributary) past another small bridge. This good path steepens, with the impressive Corna di San Peder (F5c+ to F8a+) visible across the ravine. The path soon levels (5 minutes) at a stream bed crossing (and what looks like a water pipe/small concrete bridge) and here a small path leads steeply off right to Chignol (just about visible in the trees). 10-15 minutes from the car park.

Food, accommodation supplies:

Food shouldn't be a problem as the whole of the main valley is stuffed with ristorantes, trattorias, pizzarias etc. The main problem is chosing which one. However, if you do manage to flash one of Chignol's 7cs, or if Bip Bip is your first ever 6b, and you feel like a major celebration, try the Ristorante Bar Museo which is the converted waterwheel/mill below the main road bridge in Castione. Small and characterful, this is one of the best celebratory meals you're likely to get and at a (relatively) reasonable price too.

Accommodation might be tricky if you don't want one of the multitudinous hotels. Check out the friendly Tourist Info in Castione (English-spoken, if your Italian is limited to "ciao"). Bratto, the next village up-valley from Castione has a campsite but I couldn't find anywhere for tents in between the fixed caravans. They do have 'bungalows' ie little apartments, tucked under the children's playground (www.campeggiopatrice.it) which are probably available outside of July/August; no English spoken. Onore, downvalley from Castione, also has a campsite. In good weather, it might just be nice to drive up through Bratto to the ski stations at the Passo Presolana or up at Monte Pora and just bivvy out in the meadows; the views are superb.

None of the local shops seemed to carry the guidebook but the names of the routes at Chignol are written on the rock. This article will suffice for a weekend.

Crags and rain:

There are several other crags within the immediate vicinity, including the south-facing Bratto as well as the south-west facing Lantana. If you like high quality grey verdon-style rock, the latter with its multitudes of grade 6s might be appealing. There's a topo posted at the base of the crag too. Both crags are pretty obvious from the village of Bratto (Bratto is blatent, above Bratto village, to its north. Lantana lies up through the pine woods, as you leave civilisation towards Monte Pora ski resort.

The weather in the mid-seasons tends to be good (and even in winter there is much crisp clear weather) but in the summer this part of Italy can become muggy with afternoon thunderstorms. In rain, the crag at Onore (just find the sports centre) should stay dry as it has overhanging walls and caves of conglomerate limestone, overlooked by a cornice of trees (F5 to 8b+). The idiom is strictly 'outdoor gym' so don't expect anything other than muscularity. At least there'll be people there to give you the numbers!






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