Climbing on Durance Conglomerate

Disappointingly, the French don’t really do puddings, do they? No sticky-toffee pudding? No spotted dick? No… but they do at least do a very nice pudding-stone!

A quick peek in the geological dictionary gives conglomerate (or pudding-stone) as “cemented, rounded fragments of water-worn rock or pebbles, bound by a siliceous or argillaceous substance”. In other words, a pile of rock-junk glued together to form what might, at first sight, seem to be geologic concrete. At worst, it can seem like nature used the wrong mix (which would be a worrying discovery halfway up a Riglos multi-pitch) but at best it is a constantly absorbing and geologically rich experience. To quote (badly from memory), archetypal Montserrat conglomerate is climbing with one foot on a sandstone sloper, the other on a volcanic edge, with the left hand occupied by a limestone mono and the right hanging grimly onto a granite crystal. Totally absorbing.

As hinted above, Spain has more than its fair share of conglomerate climbing (and there’s some very exciting new stuff on the west flank of the Montserrat massif and on Montsant at the Costa Daurada…) but you don’t have to go that far. A tour around the magical Dimingsdale in Staffordshire (with its three class traverses – Virgin, Ousel Low, Wright’s Rock) will provide an addictive insight. Scotland’s bolted Camel at Duntelchaig (www.scottishclimbs.com) offers the upward equivalent. The American road trip should take in the weird almost-tunnel of Maple Canyon and for the summer trip to Europe conditions will be just perfect in the Durance Valley.

You may well have already visited the Upper Durance in the Southern Alps of France. In many ways, this area is the perfect European summer venue: loads of crags sensibly arranged with east or west orientation to offer alternate light or shade; a multitude of alternative escapades; an alpine setting but with the convenience of a wide and open valley-bottom aspect. And 300+ days of sun per year. What could be better?

Photo above: Dave Cross avoiding ankle damage on an unnamed 7b+ at Rue de Masques. Photos below: View across the Durance Valley and Rhian Webb exploring a 6b+ at Montdauphin (photo: Gareth Scott).


There is an enormous range of valley crags to choose from. Some are of quite ordinary fractured and contorted mountain limestones but others are quite special including the superb rock to be found at Le Bec de l’Ase above Fressinieres, the wierd Mousetrap-zawn-type folds at the beginners’ area at La Vignette and the beautiful, spring-flower-strewn if old-school crag at Le Pouit… but what makes summer in the Haute Durance really special for me is the conglomerate of Montdauphin.

Some 30 km south of Briancon, lower down the Durance Valley, a thick deposit of glued-up pebbles has been carved by ancient glacial flows to form steep bluffs overlooking the thoroughfares of the main valley. The 17th century military architect,Vauban, recognised the strategic advantages and slapped a castle on top; later climbers recognised the climbing advantages and the rimlined the scarp with single-pitch sport-climbs.

Photo below: Gareth Scott on an unnamed 7b+ at Rue de Masques. What on earth is that you're holding in your right hand, Gareth?

Montdauphin, the main area to have been developed, swing around from a more public south face to an extensive and more secluded north and north-west face which offers perfect conditions for the summer. With ever-present views of the glacier on the summit of Pelvoux, the climbing here is easily accessed and has a pleasant base in open woodland. Though most of the routes here are in the F6s, they are nevertheless surprisingly steep and sustained… but stay calm and keep going; there’ll be an endless surprise of pebbles and pockets. At a slightly higher standard, Papillon 7a+ one of the earlier routes and the more recent SoloGirl, soft touch 7b+, are excellent examples of the genre. Unsurprisingly it’s a popular area.

For a gentle introduction to conglomerate, there are several huge slabby blocks in the sloping meadows below the main crag which offer gentler fare in the F4-F5 range (though do check that suitable summit belays are available!)

More recently developed is the Rue de Masques. The rim continues around an attractive valley, popular with Sunday walkers (perhaps partly because of the impressive switch-on-switch-off waterfall and partly because it’s only short stroll from the pleasant town of Guillestre). Here, again north-facing but with a slightly more sombre aspect, the rock offers generally higher standard climbing, mainly in the French 7s and low 8s. La Truite 7c is a typical example of the fingery climbing that conglomerate can offer. The routes here are just as absorbing as at Montdauphin and, if anything, the ‘pebbles’ are even bigger. (see photos)!

Guidebooks: The local guidebook (Grimper dans le haut-val Durance) contains around 70 crags from the Italian border down to Lac de Serre Poncon. It seems to be revised even more frequently than Rockfax’s ‘Blanca’ guide. The 2002 edition didn’t contain Rue de Masques so make sure you get more recent versions. It’s available widely in the area and also in some UK shops or from Cordee.

Where to stay: Campsites litter the main valley-drag though, despite the extra drive, many British climbers choose to enjoy the side-valley campsite at Fressinieres (which arguably has the tastiest drinking water in the Alps).

When to visit: Summer is main season though Spring and Autumn are reasonable possibilities, certainly for most of the limestone crags if not the conglomerate. On some routes, seepage is possible after summer thunderstorms.

Other attractions: The Upper Durance is a major summer venue for outdoor folk (and tourists more generally) and so is well set up for a wide range of activities. Superb summer mountain walking in the quieter country of the Queyras towards the Italian border contrasts with glacier country to the west up in the Ecrins. Multi-pitch limestone and granite rises above, or close by, the well-known Ailefroide granite boulder fields. Horse riding, mountain biking, hang gliding are all catered for (with the high ski lifts at Serre Chevalier/Briancon being open in summer). Via ferratas such as the one at Argentiere are well thought of and the river itself offers some extreme canoe descents. Relative beginners taking the accompanied descent of the Durance, from St Clement below Guillestre to Embrun, will feel that the experience is more cost-effective than Alton Towers… don’t miss it! Cultured visitors will however prefer to shop and dine whilst marvelling at the sophisticated if austere frontier fortifications which Vauban engineered to overlook the castle walls of Briancon itself.

Photo below: Dave Cross on the crux of SoloGirl 7b+ at Montdauphin (photo: Gareth Scott).





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