Bouldering in Kentmere

Kentmere is one of Lakeland’s secluded valleys. This is surprising as it has the advantages of easy access (there’s no need to get tangled up in the snarl of C21st Lake District traffic), a mild and dry climate (compared to the higher peaks of the central and western areas)… and it has boulders! Kendal is swiftly bypassed by the motorway spur and, little beyond its termination, a right turn into Staveley brings the evil temptations of Wilf’s Café (especially the cakes and the balcony at the rear, overlooking the weir). Here also is the turn-off into the 6 kilometre cul-de-sac that is the Kentmere Valley. Arrive early because the only parking in the hamlet (by the church) is very limited. The local farmer may however make a field available… but this is not guaranteed. From the parking area, signposts indicate the Garburn Pass and the bouldering areas are all easily accessible from this rough but gently inclined bridleway.

There are four main areas of a very rough, very sharp and unpolished volcanic stone. Vicious crimps abound and most of the reported problems are on steadily leaning territory (though there are gentle slabs left unrecorded to explore). Landings are usually grassy and are generally good, if sometimes sloping. The Badger Stone is the very large boulder, easily visible in the open field just beyond the end of the tarmac (no dogs, not even on leads). Little Font, a Tolkinesque wooded zone of small to medium boulders lies at the same point but on the uphill side of the Garburn Pass track. An easy walk of less than a kilometre leads to a steepening of the pass, out on the more open fellside; The Garburn Pass boulder is the large boulder down to the left, whose sloping top is crowned by a characteristic 'wig' of vegetation. On the uphill side of the track at this point is a small open valley with an obvious scattering of boulder; this is the Valley of the Kings. Although all four areas have a very separate identity, they nevertheless share a delightfully tranquillity with classic Lakeland valley views to the south.

The Badger Stone is so obvious that it most have been played on for centuries. It does have a useful short steep face with many variations at a reasonable standard. Of its 20-odd problems, most are 4a to V3 with a few meaner items up to V8. The best problem seems to be the traverse of the uphill face, from the stone block to the obvious chimney; this switches from the strenuous to a technical finale at around V2/3.

Little Font has a faerie atmosphere (which explains the scattering of dwarvish names). A good range of grades from V0 to V12 though many of the trackside problems are little more than their vicious sitting starts; for example, Common Trolls V4 with its immediate slap-slap finish, one pull from the ground, or Bass Line Venom V8 with a one-finger keel haul. However there are bigger offerings and The Karma of Trees V11 looks superb, a genuine classic, taking a slightly leaning (but very uncompromising) facet amongst the pines.

The Garburn boulder is very ‘fellside’ and offers a choice of either criminally vicious shorties (such as Paradigm V7, the holds of which might accept a finger nail) or longer stamina (almost!) problems on the downhill side above a sloping grassy incline. Because of the incline, some of these problems feel quite extended; the superb Cynosure V6/7, with its sitting start from the base of the central crack,slants up rightwards to offer some cruel pulls, stretchy slaps and a lot of excitement for a boulder of this size. Expect similar sensations on the central crackline itself, Release The Pressure V3, as well as the neighbouring problems on this excellent face. Problems on Garburn Boulder range from V0-V10.

The Valley of The Kings (perhaps a rather over-grand title for this pleasant upland valley) is somewhat more ‘esoteric’ with problems from V0 to V9. Allegedly, Aequipedus V9 is well worth the easy detour from the Garburn Pass. From here it easy to spot, numerous (as yet undocumented) boulders, down across the beck from the Garburn Boulder. But not for today… ’tips do not last long on this (un)kind of rock!

Topos:
Details of The Badger Stone and Little Font can be found at
http://www.nwbouldering.co.uk/Topos/Badger%20Rock%20and%20Little%20Font.htm
Other info on Little Font can be gleaned at
http://www.climb-guide.com/boulder-guide/little_font.html
The Garburn Boulder and The Valley of The Kings can be downloaded as a pdf file from
http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk

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